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A hammer drill does everything a regular drill does, plus it punches through concrete, brick, and block. The mechanism is simple: the chuck rotates and simultaneously delivers rapid forward blows (measured in BPM). This page covers eight cordless hammer drills across the major brands, with specs from manufacturer data sheets and prices checked in April 2026.
A hammer drill adds an axial hammering action to a spinning chuck. Each blow pushes the bit forward into the material while the rotation clears debris. In concrete mode, the bit hits the surface thousands of times per minute. In drill-only mode, the hammer disengages and the tool works like a standard drill/driver.
Cordless hammer drills weigh 4 to 6 pounds bare. They handle holes up to about 1 inch in concrete and masonry. For anything bigger, you need a rotary hammer, which is a different tool entirely. If you mostly drill into wood and metal but occasionally anchor into a basement wall or brick, a hammer drill replaces both your regular drill and a dedicated masonry tool.
The trade-off is weight and vibration. Hammer drills are heavier than standard drills and produce noticeable vibration during concrete work. If you never drill into masonry, a regular drill/driver is lighter and cheaper.
We break down specs, prices, and trade-offs in our best hammer drills guide.
BPM measures how many times the hammer mechanism strikes per minute. Higher BPM (28,000-34,000) clears material faster in concrete. Lower BPM means slower drilling but less vibration. For small anchors in residential block, 25,000 BPM is plenty. For repeated drilling into poured concrete, more is better.
Rotation speed works the same as a regular drill. Low speed (0-500 RPM) gives control for driving and starting holes. High speed (1,500-2,100 RPM) drills faster through wood and metal. In hammer mode, RPM and BPM work together. Most hammer drills have 2 or 3 speed settings.
Hammer drills produce more torque than standard drills because they need it. 450-600 in-lbs handles residential masonry and wood. 800-1,200 in-lbs is pro territory for repeated concrete work. If you also use the tool as your main drill/driver, torque matters for both modes.
Most cordless hammer drills use a 1/2-inch keyless chuck, which accepts standard masonry bits and larger drill bits. A few compact models use 3/8-inch chucks. For masonry, 1/2-inch is the standard you want.
Cordless hammer drills run 4 to 6 pounds bare tool. The hammering mechanism adds weight compared to a regular drill. If you do overhead anchoring, every ounce matters. Under 5 lbs is manageable. Over 5.5 lbs gets tiring fast above shoulder height.
For holes up to about 1 inch in concrete, a hammer drill works fine. It doubles as a regular drill/driver when you switch off the hammer. A rotary hammer is larger, heavier, and drills faster in concrete, but it only does masonry. If you drill into concrete a few times a year, a hammer drill is the right tool. If you set anchors daily, buy a rotary hammer.
Yes. Turn off the hammer function and it works like a standard drill. Most hammer drills have a mode selector: drill-only, hammer-drill, and sometimes driver mode with a clutch. You lose nothing by having the hammer capability.
Standard masonry bits with carbide tips work in any hammer drill with a keyless chuck. SDS-Plus bits are for rotary hammers, not standard hammer drills. For concrete, use bits rated for hammer drilling. For wood and metal, use the same bits you use in a regular drill.
Noticeable vibration. Pro-grade models like the Milwaukee 2904-20 and Bosch GSB18V-975C have anti-vibration features that reduce fatigue. Budget models transmit more vibration to your hands. If you drill into concrete for extended periods, wear anti-vibration gloves and take breaks.
For masonry work, brushless matters more than in regular drills. Hammer drilling is demanding on batteries. Brushless motors draw less current, which means more holes per charge. The Craftsman CMCD721B (brushed) will drain a battery noticeably faster than the Ryobi PBLHM101B (brushless) doing the same work.
Not intentionally. If your masonry bit hits rebar while drilling into concrete, stop. Switch to a metal-cutting bit without hammer mode, drill through the rebar, then switch back to the masonry bit with hammer on. Trying to hammer through rebar destroys the bit and risks damaging the tool.