Scroll Saw Guide: Blade Types, Throat Depth, and Intricate Cutting Technique

Throat Depth and Table Size

Throat depth is the distance from the blade to the rear arm of the saw. A 16-inch throat means you can cut to the center of a 32-inch-wide piece (though you would rarely do this). Most home-shop scroll saws have 16-to-20-inch throats.

Larger throat depth matters for larger workpieces — intarsia panels, wall art, and furniture components. For small ornaments, puzzles, and detail work, even a 14-inch throat is adequate.

Table size determines how much support the workpiece gets. Larger tables reduce the need for outboard support on bigger pieces. A tilting table allows beveled cuts for 3D compound shapes.

Blade Types and Selection

Pin-end blades have small cross pins at each end that hook into the blade holders. They are easy to change but limited: fewer blade types are available, the pin prevents threading through a drilled hole for interior cuts, and they produce a wider kerf.

Plain-end blades clamp into the holders. They require slightly more effort to change but offer far more blade variety and can be threaded through a drilled hole for interior cutouts. Every serious scroll-saw user uses plain-end blades.

Standard tooth blades have teeth pointing downward and spaced evenly. They cut on the downstroke, pressing the workpiece against the table. Available in sizes #1 (finest) through #12 (coarsest).

Skip-tooth blades have every other tooth removed, creating larger gullets that clear sawdust better. They run cooler and produce less burning than standard tooth blades. Good for thicker material and softwoods.

Reverse-tooth blades have the bottom few teeth pointing upward. This reduces tearout on the bottom surface of the workpiece. Use these when both sides of the work will be visible.

Spiral blades have teeth all around the blade, allowing you to cut in any direction without rotating the workpiece. They produce a wider kerf and rougher cut. Useful for very intricate patterns where turning the workpiece is impractical.

Speed Control

Variable speed is important. Slower speeds (400 to 800 SPM) for metal, plastic, and tight curves. Medium speeds (800 to 1200 SPM) for hardwood and detailed work. Higher speeds (1200 to 1800 SPM) for softwood and gentle curves where you want to move quickly.

Slower speed gives more control. When cutting intricate patterns, reduce speed until you can comfortably follow the line without the blade getting ahead of your steering input.

Speed also affects blade life. Higher speeds generate more heat from friction. If the blade is burning the wood, slow down or use a blade with more aggressive teeth that clears chips faster.

Cutting Technique

Feed the workpiece slowly and let the blade cut at its own pace. Pushing too fast deflects the thin blade, which produces angled cuts and breaks blades.

For tight curves, make relief cuts first. Cut from the edge to the tightest part of the curve, then back out. When you make the final curve cut, the waste falls away and the blade has room to turn.

For interior cutouts, drill a small hole inside the waste area, thread the blade through the hole, reconnect the blade to the upper arm, and cut from inside. This is the scroll saw's signature capability that no other saw can replicate.

Stack cutting saves time on duplicate parts. Tape or clamp multiple layers of thin material together and cut them as one piece. All layers come out identical.

Use an auxiliary table light or magnifying lamp. Scroll saw work involves following fine lines on small workpieces. Good lighting makes the difference between accurate and frustrating.

Frequently Asked Questions