Jigsaw Buying Guide: Blade Action, Speed, and Material Matching
FriendsWithTools.io earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links on this page, at no additional cost to you. We do not test these tools ourselves — all claims are sourced from manufacturer specifications, retailer listings, and aggregated user reviews, each linked inline. Prices and ratings were verified on April 2026 and may have changed.
A jigsaw cuts curves, notches, and interior cutouts that no straight-cutting saw can handle. It is the go-to tool for sink cutouts in countertops, curved furniture parts, and any cut that changes direction. They are also forgiving — a jigsaw is one of the safest power saws to learn on.
How Orbital Action Works
Standard jigsaw action moves the blade straight up and down. Orbital action adds a forward elliptical motion on the upstroke, pushing the blade into the material as it cuts. This clears chips faster and increases cutting speed in wood.
Most jigsaws offer 3 or 4 orbital settings. Setting 0 is straight reciprocation. Settings 1 through 3 increase the orbit size progressively.
Higher orbital settings cut faster in wood but produce rougher edges. Use maximum orbit for rough framing cuts and demolition. Use zero or low orbit for finish cuts in hardwood, laminate, and metal. The sweet spot for general wood cutting is usually orbital setting 2.
In metal and tile, always use zero orbit. The forward swing slams the blade into hard material and shortens blade life dramatically.
Blade Types and Selection
T-shank blades snap into the blade clamp without tools. Nearly every modern jigsaw uses T-shank. Avoid U-shank blades unless you have an older saw that requires them — they slip more easily.
High-carbon steel (HCS) blades cut wood, plywood, and plastic. They are inexpensive and flex well for curved cuts. 6 TPI (teeth per inch) for rough, fast cuts. 10 to 12 TPI for smoother results.
Bi-metal blades cut metal, nail-embedded wood, and mixed materials. They last longer than HCS in abrasive materials. 14 to 24 TPI for thin sheet metal. 8 to 10 TPI for thicker material.
Carbide-grit blades cut ceramic tile, cement board, and fiberglass. They have no teeth — they use an abrasive edge instead. Cuts are slow and dusty but effective.
Reverse-tooth blades have teeth pointing downward. They cut on the downstroke instead of the upstroke, which reduces tearout on the top surface. Use them for laminate countertops and finished panels where the visible face is up.
Corded vs Cordless
Corded jigsaws typically draw 5 to 7 amps and deliver consistent power throughout long cuts. They are lighter than cordless models because there is no battery. For shop use where an outlet is nearby, corded is simple and reliable.
Cordless jigsaws on 18V/20V platforms deliver comparable cutting speed to corded models. Battery life is adequate for most projects — a 5Ah battery handles dozens of cuts before recharging. The convenience of no cord matters most when making overhead cuts, working on a ladder, or cutting in tight spaces.
If you already own batteries in a platform, the cordless jigsaw is the obvious choice. If this is your first tool purchase, corded saves money and never runs out of power.
Features That Matter
Variable speed control via the trigger or a dial lets you match blade speed to material. Slow for metal (500 to 1000 SPM), medium for hardwood and laminate (1500 to 2500 SPM), fast for softwood and rough cuts (2500 to 3100 SPM).
A dust blower clears the cut line so you can see your pencil mark. Some saws use a built-in blower driven by the motor. Others connect to a vacuum hose. The blower is more practical for freehand curved cuts where a vacuum hose would restrict movement.
Tool-free blade change is standard on T-shank saws. A lever or button releases the blade. This matters when you switch blades frequently between wood and metal cuts.
A base plate bevel tilts the base for angled cuts, usually up to 45 degrees. Useful for coping and bevel cuts. Check that the bevel mechanism locks firmly — a sloppy bevel detent produces inaccurate angles.
LED work lights illuminate the cut line. Helpful in dim conditions. Not a deciding factor between two saws, but a nice addition.
Cutting Technique
Let the saw do the cutting. Pushing too hard causes blade deflection, which produces angled cuts and breaks blades. The blade should be moving freely without binding.
For interior cutouts (like a sink opening), drill a starter hole larger than the blade width, insert the blade, and cut from there. Some jigsaws support plunge cutting — you tip the saw forward on the baseplate edge and lower the blade into the material. Practice on scrap first.
For curves, use a narrower blade. Standard blades handle gentle curves. Scrolling blades (3/16 inch wide) cut tight radii. The tighter the curve, the narrower the blade you need.
Support the offcut to prevent tearout at the end of the cut. Unsupported material drops and snaps off, leaving a rough edge. Clamp the workpiece so neither side falls.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a jigsaw cut straight lines?
Yes, but it requires a guide. Clamp a straightedge parallel to the cut line and run the baseplate against it. Without a guide, freehand straight cuts tend to wander. For long straight cuts in sheet goods, a circular saw with a track is faster and more accurate.
Why does my jigsaw cut at an angle?
Blade deflection is the most common cause. The blade bends during the cut, so the bottom of the kerf is not directly below the top. Use a thicker blade, reduce feed pressure, lower the orbital setting, and make sure the blade is sharp. Also check that the baseplate is square to the blade.
What jigsaw blade for laminate countertops?
Use a reverse-tooth (downcut) blade with 10 to 12 TPI. The downward-cutting teeth reduce chipout on the top surface. Cut with the finished side facing up. Apply painter's tape over the cut line for additional tearout protection.