Kitchen Remodel Tool List: By Project Phase

Demo Phase

Reciprocating saw with demo blades. For cutting countertops apart, removing cabinet backs, and cutting through anything that won't come out with a pry bar. Demo blades (bi-metal, 6-inch and 9-inch) cut through wood, nails, and screws simultaneously.

Pry bar set: 15-inch flat bar, 12-inch cat's paw, and a larger 36-inch wrecking bar for stubborn cabinets. Cabinets are typically screwed through the back into studs. If the screws won't come out, the pry bar separates the cabinet from the wall.

Cordless drill/driver. For removing cabinet screws, appliance mounting hardware, and outlet covers. You will also use it in every subsequent phase.

Utility knife. For cutting caulk lines between countertops and walls, scoring drywall for removal, and cutting old flooring.

Safety gear: N95 mask (old cabinets may have lead paint, mold behind walls), safety glasses, work gloves, hearing protection. Demo generates dust, debris, and noise.

Heavy-duty contractor trash bags (3-mil) and a dumpster or debris plan. A kitchen demo generates 500 to 1,000+ pounds of debris depending on scope.

Cabinets

Level (48-inch). Critical for cabinet installation. Cabinets must be level and plumb or the doors won't close properly and the countertop won't sit flat. The longest level you can manage in the kitchen is the one to use.

Laser level (cross-line). Projects a level line around the entire room for marking cabinet heights. Faster than measuring and marking individually at every stud. A self-leveling laser ($50 to $100) saves significant time on a full kitchen.

Stud finder. Cabinets screw into studs. Mark every stud location before you start hanging anything.

Clamps (bar clamps, 12 to 24 inch). For holding face frames together while you drill and screw adjoining cabinets. You need 4 to 6 minimum.

Shims (cedar, pre-made packs). For leveling cabinets against uneven walls and floors. A kitchen remodel goes through a full pack of shims.

Cabinet jack or a helper. For holding wall cabinets in position while you drill into studs. A purpose-built cabinet jack ($30 to $50) is safer than having someone hold a 50-pound cabinet over their head while you drive screws.

Impact driver. Drives 3-inch cabinet screws through the back frame into studs without stripping. Faster and more reliable than a drill for this specific task.

Countertops

This section assumes the countertop is fabricated off-site (granite, quartz, solid surface). For laminate countertops that you cut and install yourself, add a circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, a router with a laminate trim bit, and contact cement.

For template work: the countertop fabricator creates the template. Your role is having the cabinets level and secure before the templating appointment.

Silicone caulk and a caulk gun. For the seam between the countertop and the backsplash (if you install tile backsplash after the counter). Use 100% silicone in a color that matches the grout.

For butcher block countertops (DIY-installable): circular saw or track saw for crosscuts, jigsaw for sink cutouts, random orbit sander (150 then 220 grit), food-safe mineral oil finish, and silicone adhesive to secure the slab to the cabinet frames.

Plumbing and Electrical

Plumbing: basin wrench (for faucet nuts behind the sink), adjustable wrench (for supply lines), channel-lock pliers (for drain connections), Teflon tape, plumber's putty (for sink strainer baskets), bucket and towels. If you're relocating the sink, add a pipe cutter, PVC cement, and fittings for the drain reroute.

Electrical: non-contact voltage tester (always, every time), wire strippers, outlet tester, screwdrivers (Phillips and flat). If adding under-cabinet lighting: wire nuts, Romex connectors, and possibly a fish tape for running wire through cabinet walls.

A licensed electrician should handle: adding new circuits for appliances (range, dishwasher, disposal), moving outlets, and any panel work. Most kitchens need dedicated 20A circuits for the countertop outlets (code requirement). If your existing wiring doesn't have this, an electrician adds it.

A licensed plumber should handle: gas line work (for a gas range), moving drain or supply line locations, and installing the dishwasher drain (which requires a high loop or air gap per code).

Backsplash and Finishing

Tile backsplash tools: wet saw or manual tile cutter, notched trowel (1/4 x 1/4 V-notch for most wall tile), grout float, grout sponge, spacers, level, and painter's tape (to protect countertop and cabinets during tiling).

Trim and paint: miter saw for crown molding and trim cuts (borrow it for the day), caulk gun with paintable caulk for trim-to-wall seams, 2-inch angled brush for cutting in, mini roller for cabinet faces if painting.

Hardware installation: drill with appropriate bits for cabinet hardware (Forstner bit for European-style cup hinges, standard drill bit for knob and pull screws). A hardware jig ($20 to $30) ensures consistent hole placement across all doors and drawers.

Touch-up and adjustment: adjustable wrench for final plumbing connections, screwdriver set for outlet covers, door bumpers for cabinet doors (self-adhesive, $3 for a pack), and a set of hex keys for tightening any flatpack hardware.

Buy vs Borrow

Buy: pry bars, safety gear, caulk gun, putty knife, shims, Teflon tape, silicone, sandpaper, hardware. All cheap, consumable, or endlessly reusable.

Borrow: reciprocating saw (demo only), laser level, cabinet jack, 48-inch level, wet saw (backsplash only), miter saw (trim only). These tools are used for one phase each and then idle.

A kitchen remodel takes 4 to 8 weeks for a full gut. The borrowed tools rotate in and out by phase, so you don't need them all at once. Coordinate with your lending group to schedule tool availability by week.

Frequently Asked Questions