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A router spins a shaped bit at high RPM to cut profiles, grooves, dadoes, and joinery in wood. It's the most versatile shaping tool in woodworking but also one of the most intimidating for beginners because of the variety of bits, bases, and techniques. We compare trim routers, full-size fixed-base routers, and plunge routers from DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi, and Kobalt.
Trim routers are small, one-handed tools that weigh 3-4 lbs and run 1-1.25 HP motors. They accept 1/4-inch shank bits only. They handle: edge profiling (roundovers, chamfers, ogees), hinge mortising (for door hinges), laminate trimming, inlay work, and light decorative routing. They run at a fixed speed, typically 25,000-30,000 RPM.
The DeWalt DWP611 is the benchmark trim router. Nearly everyone who routes professionally owns one or a variant of it. Makita's RT0701C is the close second. Both accept standard aftermarket bases, edge guides, and plunge attachments.
Full-size routers run 2-3.25 HP and weigh 8-12 lbs. They accept 1/2-inch shanks (and 1/4-inch with an adapter). The fixed base locks the bit at a specific depth before cutting. You start the cut at a board edge or tilt the router onto the work. These handle large profile bits, deep dadoes, raised panels, and heavy material removal. Variable speed (8,000-25,000 RPM) is standard because large bits need slower speeds.
A plunge router uses spring-loaded columns that let you lower the spinning bit into the material from above. This is necessary for: mortises (rectangular holes), stopped dadoes and grooves (that don't go to the board edge), sign carving, and inlay pockets. You set a depth stop, place the router flat on the workpiece, and push down to start the cut.
Many manufacturers sell combo kits with one motor and both a fixed base and plunge base. This is the most versatile option if you'll do both types of work.
Trim routers: 1-1.25 HP. Fine for edge work and light cuts in softwood. They'll stall in deep hardwood cuts. Full-size: 2-3.25 HP. More HP means you can take deeper passes without the motor bogging down. For router table use, 2.25 HP minimum is the recommendation because the bit is cutting upward and there's more resistance than handheld routing.
1/4-inch collets limit you to smaller bits. 1/2-inch collets accept both sizes and are necessary for large profile bits, raised panel cutters, and anything with a 1/2-inch shank. Larger shanks transfer less vibration and deflect less under load, which gives you cleaner cuts. If you buy one full-size router, make sure it has a 1/2-inch collet.
Router bits have a maximum safe RPM that decreases as the bit diameter increases. A 1-inch straight bit is fine at 24,000 RPM. A 3-inch raised panel bit at 24,000 RPM has a tip moving at dangerous speeds and will burn wood. Variable speed (8,000-25,000 RPM) lets you match speed to bit size. All full-size routers should have it. Trim routers usually don't, which is fine because trim bits are all small diameter.
Soft start ramps the motor up gradually rather than jerking to full speed the instant you flip the switch. This prevents the router from twisting in your hands at startup. It's a comfort and safety feature on full-size routers. Not critical on trim routers because they have less torque.
Routers produce fine dust and chips. Some have built-in dust ports; others need aftermarket shrouds. Router table setups should have a fence-mounted dust port and a below-table collection port. Dust collection on handheld routing is harder. Many woodworkers accept the mess for handheld work and focus dust collection on table routing where it's more practical.
We break down our top picks with full specs, pricing, and trade-offs in our best wood routers guide.
A router without bits does nothing. Individual carbide-tipped bits cost $15-60 each. A decent starter set runs $50-120. The bits matter more than the router for cut quality. A basic set should include:
Buy individual carbide-tipped bits from Freud, Whiteside, or Amana rather than cheap 30-piece import sets. Cheap bits dull fast, burn wood, and chip. One good bit outlasts five cheap ones.
Routers are project-specific for most people. Common borrowing situations:
The tool itself costs $100-250, but the bits add up. If you borrow a router, check that it comes with the bits you need for your specific task. Routing hinge mortises requires a specific straight bit and template. Edge profiling requires a specific profile bit. Without the right bit, the router is useless to you.
If you do woodworking as a regular hobby, own at least a trim router. They're useful on nearly every project for edge cleanup and detail work.
A router table flips the router upside down with the bit pointing up through a flat surface. Advantages: both hands guide the workpiece, safer for small parts, more precise for repeated cuts, required for raised panel work and complex profiles on narrow stock. Disadvantages: setup time, dedicated space, cost ($100-400 for a decent table), and the router lives in the table instead of being portable.
Most serious woodworkers end up with both: a trim router for handheld edge work and a full-size router dedicated to their table. Start handheld. Add a table when you find yourself wishing for one.
A fixed-base router locks the bit at a set depth before you turn it on. You tilt the router onto the workpiece or start at the edge. A plunge router lets you lower the spinning bit into the material from above while holding the tool flat on the surface. Plunge routers handle mortises, stopped dadoes, and inlay work where you need to start a cut in the middle of a board. Fixed-base routers are simpler for edge profiles and through cuts.
Trim routers (also called palm routers or compact routers) are 1-1.25 HP with 1/4-inch collets. They weigh 3-4 lbs and handle edge profiling, hinge mortising, laminate trimming, and light decorative work. Full-size routers are 2-3.25 HP with 1/2-inch collets. They handle large profile bits, deep dadoes, raised panels, and router table work. If you do one type of routing occasionally, a trim router is enough. If you route regularly or work with hardwood, you want the full-size.
The collet holds the bit shank. A 1/4-inch collet limits you to smaller bits with 1/4-inch shanks. A 1/2-inch collet accepts both 1/2-inch and 1/4-inch shanks (with an adapter). Larger shanks vibrate less, deflect less under load, and can handle heavier cuts. If you plan to use large profile bits, raised panel bits, or do heavy material removal, you need a 1/2-inch collet.
Yes, if you use bits larger than 1 inch in diameter. Large bits at full speed (25,000+ RPM) burn wood and can be dangerous because of the tip speed. A 3-inch raised panel bit at 25,000 RPM has a tip traveling at 200+ mph. Variable speed lets you slow down to 10,000-16,000 RPM for large bits while running small bits at full speed for clean cuts. Most full-size routers include variable speed. Most trim routers do not.
A router table flips the router upside down so the bit sticks up through a flat surface. This gives you both hands free to guide the workpiece and is safer for small parts. You need a table for raised panel doors, complex edge profiles on narrow stock, and joinery like box joints. If you only do occasional edge profiling on large boards, handheld is fine. If you do regular woodworking, a table pays off fast.
A basic set: 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch straight bits (dadoes, grooves), a flush-trim bit (template work), a roundover bit (softening edges), a chamfer bit (decorative bevels), and a rabbeting bit with bearing set (joinery). That covers 90% of home woodworking. Buy individual carbide-tipped bits rather than cheap 30-piece sets with soft steel that dulls after one use.
Routers are project-specific tools for most people. If you need to route hinge mortises on one set of doors, round over a table edge, or cut dadoes for a bookshelf, borrowing makes sense. The tool itself is moderately expensive ($100-250) but the bits add up fast ($15-60 each). If you do woodworking regularly, own one. A trim router in particular is useful enough to justify permanent ownership.