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A jigsaw cuts curves, cutouts, and plunge cuts that straight-line saws cannot handle. It is the tool you reach for when the cut path is not a straight line or when you need to start a cut in the middle of a board. We cover how orbital action works, which blade types handle which materials, and what separates a $60 jigsaw from a $200 one in real-world performance.
A jigsaw drives a narrow blade up and down at 500-3,100 strokes per minute. The narrow blade lets you steer through curves as tight as 1-inch radius. The reciprocating motion cuts on the upstroke (pulling chips away from the visible face) or downstroke (depending on blade orientation).
Common tasks: cutting sink and cooktop openings in countertops, curves in plywood for shelving and furniture, notches and relief cuts in framing lumber, trim and molding where a miter saw cannot reach, and sheet metal up to 1/8 inch thick.
Non-orbital (straight) action moves the blade only up and down. The cut is slow, controlled, and smooth. Use this setting for metal, laminate, thin material, and any cut where surface finish matters.
Orbital action adds a forward movement on the upstroke. The blade swings slightly forward as it rises, then pulls back on the downstroke. This oval pattern clears chips faster and lets the blade cut more aggressively. Use higher orbital settings for thick softwood and rough cuts where speed matters more than finish quality.
Most jigsaws offer 4 orbital settings (0 = straight, 1-3 = increasing orbital aggression). Start at 0 and increase until the blade cuts at the speed you want without excessive vibration or wandering.
T-shank is the current standard. The blade has a T-shaped tang that clicks into a tool-free clamp. Every modern jigsaw from every major brand accepts T-shank blades. U-shank is the older design with a U-shaped notch that requires a set screw. If your jigsaw takes U-shank, it is likely 15+ years old. Buy T-shank blades and a T-shank jigsaw.
Coarse teeth cut fast through softwood, plywood, and MDF. 6 TPI is aggressive and rough. 10 TPI is smoother but slower. For framing cuts and rough carpentry, 6 TPI works. For furniture and visible edges, 10 TPI or higher gives a cleaner finish. The blade length should exceed the material thickness by at least 1 inch to prevent binding.
Fine teeth cut sheet metal, thin pipe, and aluminum. Higher TPI means smoother cuts with less heat. Use 21 TPI for aluminum and soft metals. Use 36 TPI for steel sheet and stainless. Always use straight (non-orbital) action and lower speed (1,000-1,500 SPM) for metal to prevent overheating.
Reverse-tooth blades cut on the downstroke, which pushes chips downward and prevents splintering on the visible face. Use these for laminate countertops, veneered plywood, and any material where the top face must stay chip-free. Standard blades cut on the upstroke, which chips the top face.
Extra-narrow blades (3/16 inch wide or less) for tight radius curves and scrollwork. They allow sharper turns but flex more in thick material. Use for decorative cuts in thin plywood and MDF. Not suitable for material over 3/4 inch thick because the narrow blade wanders.
Variable speed ranges from 500 to 3,100 SPM across the market. High SPM (2,500-3,100) cuts wood fast. Low SPM (500-1,500) handles metal without overheating. Variable speed with a trigger sensitivity or dial is essential. A single-speed jigsaw limits you to one material type.
Stroke length is how far the blade travels on each cycle. The standard is 1 inch (25mm). Longer stroke lengths (up to 1-1/8 inch) mean faster cutting because more blade engages the material per stroke. Shorter stroke lengths give finer control for detailed work. Most quality jigsaws use 1-inch stroke length.
A cast-metal base plate stays flat and resists warping. Stamped-steel plates bend over time and cause angled cuts. Check whether the base plate tilts for bevel cuts and whether the detents are solid. A base plate with a no-mar pad prevents scratching finished surfaces.
Some jigsaws include a blower that directs air at the cut line to clear sawdust. Others connect to a vacuum. The blower helps you see your line. The vacuum keeps the workspace clean. Both are useful, but the blower is more universally helpful because it works without any additional equipment.
We compare specific models with full specs and head-to-head analysis in our best jigsaws guide.
A circular saw cuts straight lines fast. A jigsaw cuts curves and irregular shapes. If your cut is straight and goes from edge to edge, use a circular saw. If your cut curves, starts in the middle of a surface, or needs to navigate around obstacles, use a jigsaw.
A reciprocating saw demolishes. It tears through walls, pipes, nails, and framing. A jigsaw is controlled. It makes precise cuts in finished material. Use a reciprocating saw when you are tearing things apart. Use a jigsaw when you are building things and need the cut to look good.
A band saw makes the same types of cuts (curves, resawing, irregular shapes) but it is a stationary shop tool. A jigsaw goes to the workpiece. A band saw makes the workpiece come to it. If you have a workshop and do woodworking regularly, a band saw is faster and more accurate for curves. If you work on site or need portability, a jigsaw is the answer.
For most people, borrow. A jigsaw handles specific tasks that come up during projects: one countertop opening, one set of curved shelves, one batch of notched boards. Between those tasks, it sits. If you build furniture or do trim carpentry regularly, own one. If you have one project with curves or cutouts, borrow it, finish the cuts, and return it. Buy your own blades even when borrowing. They are cheap ($5-$15 for a pack) and you don't want to return a tool with dull blades.
Non-orbital (straight) action moves the blade only up and down. Orbital action adds a forward push on the upstroke, making the blade move in a slight oval pattern. Orbital cuts faster in thick wood because the blade clears chips more aggressively. Non-orbital gives you smoother, more controlled cuts in thin material, metal, and laminate. Most jigsaws have a 0-3 or 0-4 orbital setting dial so you can adjust based on the material.
T-shank. It is now the universal standard. The blade has a tang at the top that clicks into the tool-free clamp on the jigsaw. U-shank blades (with a U-shaped cutout) are the older design and require a set screw. Almost every modern jigsaw uses T-shank. If you buy blades, buy T-shank unless you own a vintage tool.
Use a jigsaw for curves, cutouts, and plunge cuts where a circular saw cannot go. A jigsaw cuts circles in countertops for sinks, curves in plywood for furniture, notches in boards for framing, and inside corners where a circular blade would overcut. A circular saw is faster for straight cuts. A jigsaw is the right tool when the cut is not straight or when you need to start a cut in the middle of a surface.
Jigsaws run 500-3,100 SPM depending on speed setting. For wood, higher SPM (2,500-3,100) cuts faster. For metal and tile, lower SPM (500-1,500) reduces heat and prevents blade dulling. Variable speed is essential. A jigsaw without speed control limits what materials you can cut effectively. Every model in the $60+ range includes variable speed.
Yes, with a metal-cutting blade (fine teeth, 21-36 TPI). Set the speed to 1,000-1,500 SPM, turn orbital action off, and use cutting oil for steel. Aluminum cuts easily at slightly higher speed. Sheet metal up to 1/8 inch thick is within range. For thicker metal, an angle grinder or bandsaw is more practical. The jigsaw handles occasional metal cuts and thin material well.
Bevel capacity is the maximum angle you can tilt the base plate for angled cuts. Most jigsaws tilt 0-45 degrees in both directions. This lets you cut beveled edges on boards and make angled plunge cuts. The base plate has detents (click-stops) at common angles like 15, 30, and 45 degrees. If the detents are imprecise or hard to set, the bevel feature is frustrating to use. Quality tools have solid detents that hold the angle under vibration.
For most people, borrow. A jigsaw handles specific tasks: cutting a countertop opening, making curved cuts for a furniture project, notching boards. Between those tasks, it collects dust. If you build furniture regularly or do trim carpentry that requires curves and cutouts, own one. If you have one countertop to cut or one set of shelves to notch, borrow it for the weekend.
Blade wander happens when the blade bends sideways during a cut, making the edge non-perpendicular. Three causes: pushing too fast (blade deflects under load), dull blade (requires more force), and thin blade in thick material (blade flexes). Fix it by letting the blade cut at its own pace, replacing dull blades immediately, and using a thicker blade for material over 1 inch. Orbital action also increases wander in thick material because the forward push adds stress.