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A level tells you if something is plumb (vertical), level (horizontal), or at a set angle. Spirit levels use a bubble in a vial of liquid. Laser levels project a line or dot across a room. Digital levels add an electronic readout for precise angles. This page covers all three types with models from Stabila, Empire, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Bosch, and Irwin.
A spirit level is an aluminum or composite bar with one or more vials filled with liquid and an air bubble. When the bubble sits between the marked lines, the surface is level or plumb. Longer levels (48 inches and up) bridge over dips and bumps in a surface, giving you a more reliable reading than a short level on an uneven wall.
A laser level projects a visible line or cross onto walls, floors, and ceilings. Self-leveling models use a pendulum or electronic sensor to find true level within a few degrees of tilt. They are faster than spirit levels for layout work because you can see the reference line across an entire room without holding anything against the wall.
Digital levels display the angle on a screen. Some beep when you hit exactly 0 or 90 degrees. They are useful when you need a specific pitch (roof slope, drainage grade, ADA ramp angle) and want a numeric readout instead of eyeballing a bubble.
We break down specs, prices, and trade-offs in our best levels guide.
Longer levels bridge over surface imperfections. A 24-inch level is portable and fits in a tool bag. A 48-inch level is the standard for framing and hanging cabinets. A 72 or 78-inch level is used for door frames and full-height plumb checks. Shorter is more convenient, longer is more accurate.
Measured as a deviation per unit of length. Stabila specifies 0.5 mm per meter (about 0.029 degrees). Budget levels rarely publish accuracy specs, which tells you something. A level that reads "level" when it is 1/8 inch off over 4 feet will cause visible problems on long runs.
Aluminum is standard, lightweight, and conductive (useful with magnetic edges on steel studs). Box-beam aluminum is stronger than I-beam. Composite levels are lighter and do not ding surfaces, but they flex more. For most work, aluminum box-beam is the right choice.
Magnets on the bottom edge let the level stick to steel studs, pipes, and beams. This frees up both hands. If you work with steel framing, magnets are not optional. For wood framing, they are nice but not necessary.
How far the laser line is visible. 50 feet covers most rooms. 100 feet handles large spaces. Bright rooms and outdoor conditions reduce visible range. Green lasers are easier to see at distance than red.
A self-leveling laser uses a pendulum to automatically find true level when placed on a surface within a few degrees of flat. You set it down and it adjusts itself. Non-self-leveling lasers require you to manually adjust the unit until a bubble reads level. Self-leveling is faster and less error-prone.
Spirit levels are better for checking individual surfaces: is this shelf level, is this post plumb. Laser levels are better for layout across a room: projecting a line for a tile row, marking cabinet heights, or aligning multiple points at the same elevation. If you do one job a month, a spirit level is enough. If you do layout work regularly, add a laser.
For framing, 0.5 mm/m (the Stabila standard) is more than enough. For tile work and cabinetry, you want that same accuracy or better. Budget levels that do not publish accuracy specs are often off by 1-2 mm/m, which adds up over a 10-foot run. If accuracy matters to your work, buy a Stabila or Milwaukee REDSTICK and trust the published spec.
Place the level on a flat surface and note the bubble position. Flip the level end-for-end on the same spot. If the bubble reads the same both ways, the level is accurate. If it shifts, the vial has drifted. Repeat vertically for the plumb vial. Do this check monthly if you use the level daily, or whenever you drop it.
In bright rooms, yes. Green is about 4x more visible to the human eye at the same power. The DeWalt DW088K (red) works fine in dim basements and interiors. The Milwaukee 3522-21 (green) is easier to see in rooms with windows and overhead lighting. The price difference is $50-70. If you do layout work in well-lit spaces, green pays for itself in time saved squinting at the line.
For short distances (under 20-30 feet), yes, if it is overcast. In direct sunlight, the line disappears fast. For outdoor grading and layout, professionals use rotary lasers with detectors, which cost $300 and up. The cross-line lasers on this page are primarily indoor tools.
48 inches. It is the most versatile length. Long enough to bridge bumps on a wall, short enough to fit in a truck bed and carry up stairs. If you only own one level, make it a 48. Add a 24-inch for tight spaces later.