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Corded drills don't run out of battery, don't lose power as they discharge, and cost less than their cordless equivalents. The trade-off is obvious: you need an outlet or an extension cord. This page covers six corded drills that are still worth buying in 2026, with specs from manufacturer data sheets.
A corded drill plugs into a wall outlet and delivers consistent rotational power for drilling holes and driving fasteners. Unlike cordless drills, the motor draws from mains power, so torque and RPM stay constant from the first hole to the hundredth. No voltage sag, no battery swaps.
Corded drills run 7 to 10 amps for standard models and up to 13 amps for heavy-duty versions. Higher amperage means more sustained power for large-diameter bits and hardwood. Weight is typically 4 to 6 pounds. Most use a 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch keyed or keyless chuck.
The market has shifted heavily toward cordless, so the selection is smaller than it used to be. But for workshop use, benchtop drill press setups, and jobs where you're near an outlet all day, a $50-90 corded drill outperforms cordless tools that cost twice as much.
We break down specs, prices, and trade-offs in our best corded drills guide.
Amps indicate how much power the motor draws. 6-7 amps handles wood drilling and light fastening. 8-10 amps drills through hardwood, metal, and large-diameter holes without bogging down. Above 10 amps is for mixing compounds and continuous heavy use.
Single-speed corded drills typically run at one fixed RPM. Variable-speed models let you control RPM with the trigger. Dual-range models (like the DeWalt DWD520) have a gear selector for high/low ranges. 0-1,200 RPM handles most drilling. 0-2,500 RPM is useful for smaller bits and faster boring.
3/8-inch chucks handle most standard bits and keep the drill compact. 1/2-inch chucks accept larger bits for heavy-duty work. Keyed chucks grip tighter but require a chuck key. Keyless chucks are more convenient. For workshop use where bit changes are frequent, keyless is worth it.
Most corded drills come with 6 to 10-foot cords. An extension cord is almost always necessary. Use a 12-gauge extension cord for 10-amp+ drills and a 14-gauge for lower-amp models. Undersized cords cause voltage drops and motor overheating.
Corded drills range from 3.5 to 6 pounds. Lighter models (under 4 lbs) are easier for overhead work. Heavier models provide more stability for large-diameter drilling. Since you never add battery weight, the number on the spec sheet is the number you feel.
Consistent power and no battery cost. A $60 corded drill delivers steady torque that a $120 cordless drill can only match on a fresh battery. If you work near outlets (workshop, garage, indoor renovation), corded tools save money and never need charging. The total cost of ownership is lower because you never buy $80 replacement batteries.
7-8 amps covers general-purpose drilling in wood and light metal. 10 amps handles hardwood, large-diameter bits, and sustained use. Above 10 amps is for mixing thinset, drilling into steel plate, or running a drill press. Most homeowners are fine with 7-8 amps.
You can, but most corded drills lack a clutch, so you risk over-driving screws. Variable-speed models give you more control. If you drive a lot of screws, a cordless drill/driver with a clutch is a better choice. Corded drills are better for boring holes and mixing.
Match the gauge to the drill amperage. For 10-amp drills: 12-gauge cord up to 50 feet, 10-gauge for longer runs. For 7-8 amp drills: 14-gauge up to 50 feet, 12-gauge beyond that. Never use a lightweight 16-gauge household extension cord with a power drill. It causes voltage drop and overheating.
Keyless for convenience. You change bits with one hand. Keyed chucks grip more securely and are better for large-diameter bits that generate high torque. If you drill 1-inch or larger holes regularly, a keyed chuck won't slip. For general use, keyless is fine.