Wood Router Guide: Fixed vs. Plunge, Bit Types, and Edge Profiles

Fixed-Base vs. Plunge Routers

A fixed-base router has the motor locked at a set depth. You set the cutting depth before starting the router, then guide it along the workpiece edge or against a fence. Fixed-base routers are simpler, lighter, and more rigid than plunge routers. They excel at edge profiling, template work, and router table use.

A plunge router lets you lower the spinning bit into the workpiece while the motor is running. This is necessary for interior cuts — mortises, inlays, sign carving, and stopped dadoes that do not start at an edge. The plunge mechanism adds weight and complexity but gives you capability that a fixed-base router cannot match.

A combo kit with both bases and one motor is the best value for most woodworkers. You swap the motor between the fixed base (for edge work and the router table) and the plunge base (for interior cuts) as needed. This avoids buying two separate routers while covering both use cases.

Motor size matters. A 1-1/4 HP (compact) router handles light edge profiling and trim work. A 2 to 2-1/4 HP (mid-size) router handles most woodworking tasks including router table duty. A 3+ HP (full-size) router is for heavy-duty production use — panel raising, large-diameter bits, and continuous router table operation. For home woodworking, mid-size is the sweet spot.

Router Bit Types

Straight bits cut flat-bottomed grooves, dadoes, and rabbets. They come in diameters from 1/8-inch to 1-1/2-inch. A 1/4-inch and a 1/2-inch straight bit handle most dado and groove work. Spiral-cut straight bits (up-cut, down-cut, or compression) produce cleaner cuts than standard straight bits, especially in plywood and hardwood.

Roundover bits create a rounded edge profile — the most common decorative edge in furniture and trim. A 1/4-inch roundover is subtle and elegant. A 3/8-inch roundover is the standard furniture edge. A 1/2-inch or larger creates a bold, pronounced round. Roundover bits have a bearing that rides along the workpiece edge to control the cut depth.

Chamfer bits cut a 45-degree bevel on edges. They produce a crisp, modern look compared to the softer roundover. A chamfer bit with a bearing lets you cut consistent bevels without a fence. Chamfer size is specified by the bevel width — a 1/4-inch chamfer removes a 1/4-inch flat at 45 degrees.

Flush-trim and pattern bits follow a template or existing edge. Flush-trim bits have the bearing on the bottom (shank end) and cut material flush with a template below. Pattern bits have the bearing on the top and follow a template above. Both are essential for making identical parts from a master template. The bearing diameter matches the cutting diameter exactly.

1/4-Inch vs. 1/2-Inch Shank

Router bits come with 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch shanks. The shank is the smooth cylindrical part that the collet grips. Half-inch shanks are stiffer, vibrate less, and handle heavier cuts without deflection. Quarter-inch shanks flex more under load, which can cause chatter marks and uneven cuts with large-diameter bits.

Use 1/2-inch shank bits whenever your router accepts them. Most mid-size and full-size routers come with both 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch collets. Compact routers typically accept only 1/4-inch shanks. If a bit is available in both shank sizes, the 1/2-inch version produces better results in every measurable way.

Carbide-tipped bits outlast high-speed steel (HSS) bits by a wide margin. The carbide cutting edges stay sharp through hardwood, plywood, MDF, and even laminate. HSS bits are cheaper but dull quickly on anything harder than softwood. For the small price difference, carbide is the only practical choice for most routing.

Bit diameter determines the maximum profile size. Edge-profiling bits (roundover, chamfer, cove, ogee) are available from 1/4-inch to over 3 inches in diameter. Larger-diameter bits require slower router speed — a 3-inch bit at 25,000 RPM has a rim speed that is dangerously fast. Follow the speed chart on the bit packaging or in the router manual.

Feed Direction and Safety

Feed the workpiece against the bit rotation. On a handheld router, this means moving the router from left to right along the edge when the router is between you and the workpiece. Moving with the rotation (climb cutting) grabs the workpiece and can throw the router or yank the workpiece away from you.

Take multiple light passes rather than one deep cut. For a 3/8-inch roundover, set the bit depth to remove half the material on the first pass and the full profile on the second pass. Deep single passes cause burning, tearout, and bit deflection. They also increase kickback risk because the bit is buried in the wood and has nowhere to go if it grabs.

End grain routes before long grain. When routing all four edges of a panel, cut the end-grain edges first. The bit exit at the end of an end-grain cut tears out a small chip at the corner. The subsequent long-grain pass removes that chip. If you route long grain first, the end-grain pass tears out the finished edge.

Use hearing protection and a dust mask. Routers are among the loudest power tools in the shop (90 to 100 dB) and produce extremely fine dust that stays airborne. A dust port connection to a shop vacuum captures most of the dust at the source. Eye protection is mandatory — routing throws chips at high velocity.

Frequently Asked Questions