Understanding Sandpaper Grits: Which Grit for Which Job
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The number on sandpaper tells you how coarse or fine the abrasive is. Lower numbers are rougher. Higher numbers are smoother. That much is obvious. What's less obvious is which grit to start with, when to step up, and why skipping grits shows up as visible scratches in your finish. This guide covers the common grits, what each one does, and the progression that produces a clean result without wasting time.
How Grit Numbers Work
The grit number roughly corresponds to the number of abrasive particles per square inch. 60-grit has large, aggressive particles that tear through material fast and leave deep scratches. 220-grit has fine particles that smooth a surface without removing much material. The scale goes from 36 (extremely coarse, for paint stripping and heavy stock removal) up to 2000+ (ultra-fine, for automotive clear coat polishing).
For woodworking and general DIY, you'll use grits between 60 and 320. That range covers everything from stripping old paint to preparing a surface for polyurethane.
The Grit Ranges
40 to 60 grit: coarse. Removes paint, shapes wood, levels rough surfaces. Leaves deep scratches that must be sanded out with finer grits. Use this for stripping old finishes off furniture or flattening a warped board on a belt sander. Don't start here unless the surface actually needs aggressive material removal.
80 grit: medium-coarse. The typical starting grit for bare wood that's already reasonably flat. Removes mill marks from lumber, smooths out rough-sawn surfaces, and levels minor imperfections. Most sanding projects start at 80 if the wood isn't painted or heavily damaged.
120 grit: medium. Removes the scratch pattern from 80 grit and prepares the surface for primer or sealer. For paint-grade work (where you're covering the surface with opaque paint), 120 is often the final grit. The scratches are small enough that primer and paint fill them.
150 to 180 grit: medium-fine. The transition zone between rough prep and finish prep. 150 is good for between coats of primer. 180 is where you start if the wood will receive stain, because stain accentuates any scratch pattern that remains.
220 grit: fine. The final grit before applying stain, clear coat, or varnish to bare wood. At 220, the scratch pattern is invisible to the naked eye under most finishes. Going beyond 220 on bare wood actually reduces stain absorption because the pores get burnished closed.
320 grit: very fine. Used between coats of finish (polyurethane, lacquer, varnish) to knock down dust nibs and raised grain. Not for bare wood. 320 between coats gives the next coat a clean surface to bond to.
The Stepping Rule
Don't skip more than one grit level. Going from 80 straight to 220 leaves 80-grit scratches that 220 can't reach. The 80-grit grooves are too deep for the fine 220 particles to sand out in a reasonable time. The correct progression is 80, 120, 150 or 180, 220. Each grit removes the scratch pattern from the previous one and replaces it with a finer pattern.
You can skip the 150/180 step if you're painting (not staining). Paint is thick enough to fill 120-grit scratches. Stain is not. If stain is going on the wood, sand through to 220 with every step.
Grit by Task
Stripping paint from furniture: start at 60, step to 80, then 120. Chemical stripper first if the paint is thick, then sand the residue. Preparing bare lumber for paint: 80 to 120. For stain: 80 to 120 to 180 to 220. Between coats of poly or varnish: 220 to 320, light pressure, just enough to degloss. Smoothing drywall joint compound: 120 to 150 on a pole sander. Deburring cut metal: 80 to 120 on a flap disc or belt.
Wet sanding (automotive, lacquer finishing): 400 to 2000 with water as a lubricant. This is specialized finishing work, not general woodworking.
Frequently Asked Questions
What grit sandpaper should I use before painting wood?
120 grit for the final sand before primer. If the wood is rough, start at 80 and step to 120. If you're scuffing between coats of paint, 220 grit is enough to give the next coat a surface to grab.
What grit should I use before staining?
220 grit as the final step, with a progression of 80 to 120 to 180 to 220. Stain highlights every scratch, so you can't skip steps. Sand with the grain on the final pass. Cross-grain scratches at 220 will show through stain.
Can I reuse sandpaper?
Yes, until it stops cutting. Clogged sandpaper (white residue filling the gaps between particles) can sometimes be cleaned with a rubber sanding belt cleaner or a crepe rubber block. Once the abrasive particles are worn flat, the paper is done regardless of how clean it looks.
Is higher grit always better?
No. Sanding bare wood past 220 burnishes the surface and closes the pores, which prevents stain from absorbing evenly. Higher grits (320+) are for between-coat sanding, not for bare wood. More isn't better; the right grit for the step is better.