Reciprocating Saw Guide: Demolition, Pruning, Plumbing, and Blade Selection
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A reciprocating saw is a demolition tool. It tears through framing lumber, cuts pipe, removes old nails, and prunes tree limbs. It does none of these things neatly. If you need a clean cut, use a different saw. If you need to take something apart fast, this is the tool.
When to Reach for a Reciprocating Saw
Demolition is the primary use. Cutting out walls, removing old framing, taking apart decks, and cutting through nail-studded lumber. The saw does not care about nails, screws, or mixed materials — the right blade handles all of them.
Plumbing work uses reciprocating saws constantly. Cutting cast iron drain pipe, copper supply lines, PVC, and ABS in tight spaces where no other saw fits. Short blades between 4 and 6 inches work best in walls and under floors.
Tree pruning is surprisingly effective. Pruning blades cut branches up to 8 inches in diameter faster than a hand saw and reach into tight crotches that a chainsaw cannot. Arborists use them regularly.
Flush cutting against walls and floors. With the shoe against the surface and a flexible blade, you can cut dowels, pipes, and fasteners flush. Some blades are specifically designed for flush-cut work.
Stroke Length and Speed
Stroke length is the distance the blade travels in one cycle, typically 1 to 1-1/4 inches. Longer strokes remove material faster but produce more vibration. For most work, 1-1/8 inches is the standard.
Strokes per minute (SPM) range from 0 to 3000 on most saws. Variable speed via the trigger is essential. Full speed for wood demolition, half speed for metal cutting, low speed for controlled cuts near things you want to keep.
Orbital action (available on some models) swings the blade in an elliptical motion, similar to a jigsaw. This speeds up wood cutting significantly but increases vibration and makes metal cutting less effective. Use orbital for rough wood; turn it off for metal and precision.
Corded vs Cordless
Corded reciprocating saws deliver 10 to 15 amps of sustained power. For all-day demolition work — gutting a bathroom, tearing out a deck — corded saws do not slow down or run out of battery. They are also less expensive.
Cordless models on 18V/20V platforms with 5Ah or larger batteries handle most residential demo tasks. You get maybe 30 to 60 minutes of heavy cutting per charge, depending on material. Having two batteries is practical.
The cordless advantage is enormous for overhead cuts, ladder work, and jobsite work where extension cords are impractical or hazardous. If you already have batteries in a platform, the cordless version is the better choice for most homeowners.
Blade Selection
Wood blades: 6 to 12 inches, 5 to 8 TPI. Longer blades for thicker material. The aggressive tooth pattern cuts fast but rough. Use pruning blades for green wood — they have wider gullets to clear wet chips.
Metal blades: 4 to 8 inches, 14 to 24 TPI. Bi-metal construction survives hitting nails and screws. For pipe cutting, match the blade length to the pipe diameter plus a few inches of clearance. 18 TPI is a good general metal-cutting choice.
Demolition blades: 8 to 12 inches, 8 to 14 TPI. Thick bi-metal blades designed for nail-embedded lumber, mixed materials, and abuse. These are the blades for tearing apart structures where you will hit nails, screws, and the occasional piece of steel.
Carbide-tipped blades cost more but last 10 to 20 times longer than standard bi-metal in abrasive materials like cast iron, stainless steel, and cement board. Worth the price when cutting materials that eat through standard blades in minutes.
Technique and Safety
Let the shoe (the flat plate at the base) ride against the work surface. The shoe acts as a pivot point and provides control. Without shoe contact, the saw bounces unpredictably.
Do not force the blade. Let the teeth do the cutting. Excessive pressure bends the blade, which produces curved cuts and breaks blades prematurely.
Check behind the cut surface before cutting into a wall. Reciprocating saws will happily cut through electrical wires, plumbing pipes, and gas lines hidden behind drywall or plaster. Use a stud finder or inspection camera when cutting into unknown walls.
Wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Reciprocating saws throw debris and produce 90+ decibels under load. A face shield is worthwhile during overhead demolition work where falling debris is likely.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a reciprocating saw used for?
Demolition (removing walls, decks, framing), plumbing (cutting pipe in tight spaces), pruning (tree branches up to 8 inches), and any rough cutting where speed matters more than precision. It is not a finish-work tool.
Can I cut metal with a reciprocating saw?
Yes. Use a bi-metal or carbide-tipped blade with 14 to 24 TPI. Reduce speed for metal cutting — about half trigger. Let the blade do the work without forcing it. Cutting cast iron, steel pipe, and threaded rod is routine work for a recip saw with the right blade.
What is the difference between a reciprocating saw and a Sawzall?
Sawzall is Milwaukee's brand name for their reciprocating saw. It has become a generic term the way Band-Aid is used for adhesive bandages. Every manufacturer makes a reciprocating saw; Milwaukee calls theirs a Sawzall.