Outdoor Shower Construction: Plumbing, Drainage, and Enclosure Options

Cold Water Only: The Simple Version

The simplest outdoor shower taps into an existing hose bib. Run a garden hose to the shower location, attach a hose-to-shower adapter (available at any home center for under $30), and mount it to a post or wall.

For a permanent cold-water installation, run 3/4-inch PEX or copper from the nearest cold-water supply line to the shower location. Install a frost-proof sillcock or shut-off valve at the supply end so you can drain the line before freezing weather.

A cold-water shower is appropriate for rinsing off after swimming, beach use, or gardening. If you want comfortable showering, you need hot water — covered below.

Adding Hot Water

The easiest way to get hot water to an outdoor shower is to extend a hot-water line from inside the house. Tap into the nearest hot-water supply line (typically in a bathroom or kitchen on the exterior wall nearest the shower location), run insulated PEX through the wall, and bring both hot and cold lines to the shower valve.

For a detached shower location (away from the house), you have two options: a dedicated tankless water heater mounted at the shower, or a long insulated run from the house water heater. Tankless units (electric or propane) provide unlimited hot water at the point of use but add cost and complexity.

A solar shower bag (4 to 5 gallons, hung in the sun for a few hours) works for occasional use where plumbing is not practical. It provides warm water for about 5 to 8 minutes of showering.

Use a mixing valve designed for outdoor use. Standard interior shower valves are not rated for exposure to weather, UV, and temperature extremes. Look for brass valves with removable handles (so you can take them inside during winter).

Drainage

Check local codes for outdoor shower drainage requirements. Many municipalities require gray water from outdoor showers to drain to the sewer or septic system, not to a dry well or the ground surface. This is especially true if you are using soap.

The simplest code-compliant drainage: a shower pan or poured concrete base sloped to a 2-inch drain connected to your existing sewer line. The drain needs a P-trap to prevent sewer gas from coming back up through the shower drain.

If codes allow, a French drain or dry well works for outdoor showers used without soap (rinse-only). Dig a pit 2 to 3 feet deep and 2 feet across, fill with gravel, and route the shower drain to it. The water percolates into the surrounding soil.

For the shower floor, use pressure-treated decking on a frame (allows water to drain through), poured concrete sloped to a drain, or a bed of river rock over landscape fabric. Concrete is the most durable. Decking looks the best. River rock is the easiest to install.

Enclosure Design

Privacy needs depend on location and local norms. A shower inside a fenced yard may need minimal enclosure — just a post for mounting the showerhead. A shower visible from the street or neighbors needs walls.

Cedar, redwood, or composite lumber are the best enclosure materials. They resist rot, do not splinter when wet, and weather to a natural gray. Pressure-treated pine works but should be sealed and has a more utilitarian appearance.

Standard enclosure height is 6 to 7 feet. Leave a 12-inch gap at the bottom for ventilation and drainage — a fully enclosed shower stays wet and grows mold faster.

Minimum footprint is 36 x 36 inches for a shower-only enclosure. If you want a dry changing area, extend to 36 x 60 inches with a partial wall or curtain separating the wet and dry zones.

Mount the showerhead at 78 to 84 inches for comfortable use. A rain-style showerhead on a riser pipe is the most common outdoor shower configuration. Include a lower fixture (handheld or foot wash) at 24 inches for rinsing feet and pets.

Winterization

In freezing climates, outdoor shower plumbing must be drained before winter. Install shut-off valves inside the house where the outdoor lines branch off. Close the valves, open the outdoor fixtures, and blow compressed air through the lines to clear remaining water.

Remove the showerhead, valve handle, and any exposed hardware for winter storage. These components last longer when stored indoors during the off-season.

If you run PEX supply lines, the pipe itself tolerates some freeze-thaw expansion, but the fittings do not. Drain PEX lines just as you would copper — do not rely on the pipe's flexibility to survive freezing.

Frequently Asked Questions