Jigsaw Blade Types Explained: T-Shank, U-Shank, and What Cuts What
FriendsWithTools.io earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links on this page, at no additional cost to you. We do not test these tools ourselves — all claims are sourced from manufacturer specifications, retailer listings, and aggregated user reviews, each linked inline. Prices and ratings were verified on April 2026 and may have changed.
A jigsaw cuts curves, notches, and plunge cuts that no other saw handles as easily. But the wrong blade turns a clean curve into a splintered mess. Jigsaw blades are short (3 to 5 inches), thin, and specialized. There are blades for clean cuts in hardwood, rough cuts in framing lumber, scrollwork in thin plywood, metal cutting, and laminate where splintering matters. The blade you grab determines the quality of the cut before you even pull the trigger.
T-Shank vs. U-Shank
T-shank blades have a tang shaped like the letter T that clicks into the blade clamp without tools. Every modern jigsaw from the last 15 to 20 years uses T-shank. U-shank blades have a half-moon cutout and require a setscrew to hold them. U-shank is the older standard, and blades are harder to find now.
If your jigsaw takes T-shank (check the clamp), buy only T-shank blades. They're more stable in the clamp, change faster, and every blade manufacturer makes them. If you have an older jigsaw with a U-shank clamp, you can find U-shank blades at most hardware stores but the selection is shrinking every year. Upgrading to a T-shank jigsaw makes the blade availability issue disappear.
Wood Blades
For general wood cutting, a 6 TPI blade cuts fast through dimensional lumber, plywood, and sheathing. The cuts are rough, with visible tooth marks and some splintering on the exit side. Fine wood blades at 10 to 12 TPI produce smoother cuts in hardwood and furniture-grade plywood. The trade-off is always speed versus cut quality.
Reverse-tooth blades have teeth that point downward instead of up. On a standard blade, the upstroke does the cutting, which pulls splinters out of the top surface. A reverse-tooth blade pushes splinters down into the surface, keeping the top clean. Use these when the visible side faces up: countertops, laminate, finished plywood. The bottom side will splinter instead, but it's hidden.
Scroll Blades
Scroll blades are narrower than standard blades (1/8-inch wide versus 5/16-inch). The narrow profile lets them cut tighter curves without binding. A standard blade handles curves down to about a 1-inch radius. A scroll blade handles curves down to 3/8-inch radius. The narrow blade also means more flex and a less straight cut on long lines.
Use scroll blades for decorative cutouts, tight curves, and pattern work. Switch back to a standard-width blade for straight cuts and gentle curves where tracking accuracy matters more than turn radius.
Metal Blades
Metal jigsaw blades run 14 to 24 TPI and are bi-metal (HSS teeth on a flexible body) or all-HSS. For sheet metal up to 1/8-inch, 18 to 24 TPI makes clean cuts without snagging. For thicker metal (1/8 to 3/8-inch), 14 TPI cuts faster but rougher. Reduce the jigsaw speed to medium or low when cutting metal. Full speed overheats the blade and the workpiece.
Cutting oil or wax on the blade helps with aluminum and stainless. It reduces friction, extends blade life, and produces a cleaner edge. A drop of cutting fluid every few inches is enough.
Specialty Blades
Carbide-grit blades cut cement board, fiberglass, and ceramic tile. They have no teeth. A carbide coating on the edge grinds through abrasive materials that destroy standard toothed blades in seconds.
Laminate blades are fine-toothed (12+ TPI) with a progressive tooth set that minimizes chipping on the melamine surface of laminate countertops and flooring. They cost $4 to $6 per blade and save the time of sanding or filing chipped edges.
Flush-cut blades extend past the front of the jigsaw shoe, letting you cut right up to a perpendicular surface. They're useful for cutting flooring against a wall or trimming material flush to an adjacent surface.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my jigsaw cut crooked?
Three common causes: a dull or bent blade (replace it), too much orbital action for the material (reduce or turn off orbital), or pushing the saw too fast so the blade deflects. Let the blade cut at its own pace. If you force it, the thin blade bends and the cut wanders.
Can a jigsaw cut a 2x4?
Yes, with a 6 TPI wood blade and full orbital action. It's slower than a circular saw or recip saw, but it works. The maximum cutting depth of most jigsaws is 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches, so a 2x4 (1-1/2 inches actual) is well within range. A 4x4 (3-1/2 inches actual) is at the limit.
How do I reduce splintering on plywood?
Use a reverse-tooth blade or a fine-tooth blade (10+ TPI). Put masking tape over the cut line. Cut with the good face down if using a standard up-cutting blade (the bottom side is the clean side on a standard blade). Reduce orbital action to zero for the cleanest edge.
How many blades should I keep on hand?
At minimum: a pack of 6 TPI wood blades (general purpose), a pack of 10 TPI fine wood blades (finish cuts), and a few 18 TPI metal blades. That covers 90% of jigsaw work. Add scroll blades and reverse-tooth blades as specific projects demand them.