Woodworking Clamps: Bar, Pipe, Spring, and Specialty Types

Bar Clamps and F-Clamps

Bar clamps (also called F-clamps) are the most versatile type. A fixed jaw at one end, a sliding jaw that locks anywhere along the bar, and a screw mechanism for final tightening. Available from 6 inches to 60+ inches.

Quick-grip (trigger) clamps are one-handed bar clamps — squeeze the trigger to tighten. They are faster to set up but produce less clamping pressure than screw-type bar clamps. Useful for light to medium work and for situations where you need one hand free.

Parallel-jaw clamps (Bessey K-Body or equivalent) have jaws that remain parallel throughout the clamping range. This distributes pressure evenly across the full jaw width, which prevents the workpiece from buckling. They are the premium choice for panel glue-ups and furniture assembly.

For starting out, buy bar clamps in pairs (you almost always need matched sets) in at least two lengths: a set of 12-inch clamps for small assemblies and a set of 24 or 36-inch clamps for wider panels.

Pipe Clamps

Pipe clamps use standard 3/4-inch or 1/2-inch black iron pipe as the bar. You buy the clamp heads (fixed and sliding) and the pipe separately. This means you can make clamps of any length by buying longer pipe — a 6-foot pipe clamp costs about $20 in hardware plus pipe.

This is the most economical way to build a collection of long clamps. For tabletops, doors, and other wide glue-ups, pipe clamps at 36 to 72 inches are far less expensive than bar clamps of the same length.

The downside: pipe clamps are heavier and bulkier than bar clamps, and the round pipe can roll on the workbench. Placing them on a flat surface with one jaw down keeps them stable during glue-ups.

Spring Clamps

Spring clamps work like large clothespins. They open and close with one hand and provide moderate clamping pressure. Available in 1-inch to 6-inch jaw openings.

Use them for: holding a template to a workpiece, clamping a glue joint on small or thin pieces, holding a sanding block to a curved surface, securing a drop cloth, and dozens of other light-duty holding tasks.

They are cheap enough to buy a dozen or more. Keep an assortment of sizes in your shop — you will reach for them constantly.

C-Clamps and Specialty Clamps

C-clamps (named for their C-shaped frame) provide high clamping pressure in a compact package. They are slower to adjust than bar clamps (fully threaded screw) but are stronger for their size. Useful for metal work, holding jigs to a table, and any situation requiring serious pressure.

Corner clamps hold two pieces at 90 degrees for picture frames, boxes, and case construction. They ensure square corners without hand-holding.

Band clamps (strap clamps) wrap around irregular shapes — round or oval frames, chairs, and multi-sided assemblies. The strap cinches tight around the perimeter, applying even pressure to all joints simultaneously.

Edge clamps are three-jaw clamps where one jaw pushes from the edge of a board. Used for gluing edge banding, trim, or lipping to panels.

How Many Clamps Do You Need

For a starter woodworking shop: 4 quick-grip clamps (6-inch), 4 bar clamps (12-inch), 2 bar clamps or pipe clamps (24 to 36-inch), 6 spring clamps in mixed sizes, and 2 C-clamps (4 to 6-inch). Total: about 18 clamps for $100 to $200.

For panel glue-ups (tabletops, shelves), you need one clamp every 8 to 12 inches across the width, alternating above and below to equalize pressure. A 24-inch-wide tabletop needs at least 3 clamps per row, with rows every 12 to 18 inches along the length.

Buy clamps in pairs. You almost always need matched sets — one on each side of a glue-up, or one at each end of a board. Odd numbers leave one without a partner.

Frequently Asked Questions