Chainsaw Selection: Bar Length, Gas vs Battery, and Safety Features

Bar Length

The bar length determines the maximum diameter you can cut in a single pass. A 16-inch bar cuts logs up to 14 inches in diameter efficiently (the effective cutting capacity is about 2 inches less than the bar length). For trees larger than the bar length, you can cut from both sides, but this requires more skill.

For homeowner use (limbing, storm cleanup, small tree felling, firewood): a 14 to 16-inch bar handles most tasks. For medium property management (larger trees, regular firewood processing): 16 to 18 inches. For large trees and professional use: 18 to 24 inches.

Longer bars are heavier, harder to control, and require more power. A 20-inch bar on an underpowered saw bogs down and increases the risk of kickback. Match bar length to engine or motor power — manufacturer recommendations exist for a reason.

Gas vs Battery vs Corded

Gas chainsaws are the most powerful and have unlimited runtime. They handle any cutting task regardless of location. Downsides: heavy, loud, require fuel mixing, produce exhaust, and need more maintenance (carburetor tuning, spark plug, air filter). A gas saw that sits unused for months often needs carburetor cleaning before it will start.

Battery chainsaws have improved dramatically. A 40V to 80V battery saw matches the cutting performance of a 35 to 45cc gas saw for short to medium tasks. They start instantly, run quietly, require minimal maintenance, and produce no exhaust. The limitation is runtime — heavy cutting drains a battery in 30 to 60 minutes. Extra batteries add $80 to $150 each.

Corded electric saws are the least expensive and lightest. They work well for limbing and light cutting near the house. The cord limits range and creates a safety hazard if you are not careful about cord management during cuts. Not recommended for felling.

Safety Features

Chain brake: stops the chain within milliseconds when activated by the front hand guard (triggered by kickback) or manually. This is the most important safety feature on a chainsaw. It is standard on all modern saws and should be tested before every use.

Anti-vibration system: isolates the handles from the engine/motor vibration. Prolonged use of a saw without anti-vibration causes hand-arm vibration syndrome (HAVS). Better anti-vibration systems make longer cutting sessions less fatiguing and safer.

Low-kickback chain: designed with reduced-kickback cutters and depth gauges that limit the bite of each tooth. Required by ANSI standards for non-professional use. Professional chain cuts faster but kicks back more aggressively. Use low-kickback chain unless you are trained and experienced.

Throttle interlock: requires two hands on the saw to engage the throttle. The rear handle has a lockout that must be depressed before the trigger responds. This prevents accidental engagement if you grab the saw with one hand.

Maintenance Basics

Chain tension: check before every use. The chain should sit in the bar groove without sagging but should pull away from the bar slightly when you lift it at the midpoint. A loose chain can derail; an overtight chain wears the bar, chain, and sprocket prematurely.

Chain sharpening: a sharp chain pulls itself into the wood. A dull chain produces fine dust instead of chips, requires you to push the saw, and overheats the bar and chain. Sharpen with a round file matched to your chain pitch (check the chain manufacturer's spec) every 3 to 5 tanks of fuel, or sooner if you hit dirt or rock.

Bar maintenance: flip the bar periodically so it wears evenly on both sides. Clean the bar groove and oil hole after each use. Replace the bar when the groove is worn enough that the chain wobbles laterally.

For gas saws: use fresh fuel (ethanol-free if available), the correct oil-to-gas ratio, and drain the fuel system if the saw will sit unused for more than a month. Most hard-start issues trace to stale fuel or a gummed carburetor.

Frequently Asked Questions