Bandsaw Buying Guide: Throat Depth, Resaw Capacity, and Blade Selection
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A bandsaw is the most versatile saw in a woodworking shop. It rips, crosscuts, resaws thick stock into thinner boards, cuts curves, and handles irregular shapes. Unlike a table saw, the blade pushes the workpiece down onto the table instead of throwing it back at you. It is inherently safer than most other power saws, and the thin blade wastes less material per cut.
Sizing: Throat and Resaw Capacity
Bandsaw size is described by wheel diameter (which determines throat depth) and resaw capacity (maximum cutting height). A 14-inch bandsaw has 14-inch wheels, a throat depth of about 13-1/2 inches, and resaw capacity of 6 to 12 inches depending on the model.
9-to-10-inch benchtop models handle curves, small resawing, and light ripping. They are affordable and compact. Resaw capacity is limited to 3 to 4 inches. Good for scroll work and small projects.
14-inch bandsaws are the standard home-shop size. They handle most woodworking tasks including resawing boards up to 6 inches thick (up to 12 with a riser block). A 1 to 1.5 HP motor drives them. This is the size for most serious hobbyists.
17-to-18-inch saws are full-sized shop machines. They resaw 12+ inches without a riser block, have 2 to 3 HP motors, and the larger wheel diameter means longer blade life and better tracking. For frequent resawing and production work.
Riser blocks add 6 inches to the resaw capacity of a 14-inch saw by extending the upper wheel housing. They work well but require a longer blade and sometimes a more powerful motor to push the wider cut.
Blade Width, TPI, and Selection
Wider blades cut straighter; narrower blades cut tighter curves. A 1/2-inch blade handles most general ripping and light curves. A 1/4-inch blade cuts moderate curves. A 1/8-inch blade handles tight radii for scrollwork.
For resawing (ripping a board into thinner slabs), use the widest blade your saw accepts — typically 1/2 inch on a 14-inch saw or 3/4 inch on an 18-inch saw. Wide blades resist deflection through tall cuts.
TPI (teeth per inch) determines cut smoothness and chip clearance. 3 to 4 TPI for resawing and rough ripping — the large gullets clear chips from thick cuts. 6 TPI for general purpose. 10 to 14 TPI for thin material and metal.
Blade material matters. Carbon steel blades are inexpensive and work for general wood cutting. Bi-metal blades last much longer and handle nails, mixed materials, and harder woods. Carbide-tipped blades excel at resaw work — they stay sharp 5 to 10 times longer than carbon steel.
Blade Guides and Tension
Blade guides keep the blade tracking straight during the cut. There are two sets: above the table and below. Each set has two side guides and one rear thrust bearing.
Block guides (steel, ceramic, or Cool Blocks) are simple friction guides. They work well when properly adjusted. Cool Blocks (graphite-impregnated composite) run quieter and generate less heat than steel blocks.
Ball-bearing guides have small bearings that roll against the blade sides and back. They create less friction, last longer, and are easier to adjust. Carter, Olson, and aftermarket bearing guide sets are popular upgrades for benchtop and 14-inch saws.
Proper blade tension is critical for straight cuts. Most bandsaws have a tension scale on the housing, but these are approximate. The flutter test is more reliable: set the upper guide 6 inches above the table, tension the blade, and push it sideways. It should deflect about 1/4 inch. Too little tension and the blade wanders during cuts; too much and it fatigues and breaks prematurely.
Tuning for Accurate Cuts
A bandsaw that drifts during rip cuts is not broken — it is out of adjustment. Proper tuning starts with the blade, not the fence.
Blade tracking: the blade should ride in the center of the upper wheel crown (or slightly forward). Adjust the tracking knob with the motor off, turning the wheel by hand, until the blade tracks consistently.
Table square to blade: place a square against the blade (teeth facing away) and check for daylight. Adjust the table tilt until the blade and square are parallel.
Drift compensation: even a properly tuned saw may cut at a slight angle to the fence. Rather than fighting it, angle the fence to match the drift. Draw a line on a board, cut freehand along the line, note the angle the board naturally feeds at, and set your fence to that angle.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size bandsaw for a home shop?
A 14-inch bandsaw handles the vast majority of home woodworking tasks. With a 1/2-inch resaw blade it cuts boards up to 6 inches thick (more with a riser block). For occasional use and smaller projects, a 10-inch benchtop model is adequate and much less expensive.
Can I resaw on a benchtop bandsaw?
You can resaw material up to the saw's maximum cutting height, typically 3 to 4 inches. The lighter frame and smaller motor limit the cut height and the saw may struggle with dense hardwoods. For occasional thin resawing (veneers from 2-inch boards), a benchtop works. For regular resawing, a 14-inch or larger saw is far better.
Why does my bandsaw blade wander during rip cuts?
The blade is either dull, under-tensioned, or too narrow for the cut. For rip cuts, use a 1/2-inch or wider blade with 3 to 4 TPI, tension it properly, and ensure the guides are adjusted close to the blade. Also check that the blade teeth are sharp — a dull blade follows the path of least resistance, not the fence.